Shade, glorious shade
When it's 90 degrees and about the same humidity, and you're done with the cemetery, there's nothing like an espresso on La Biela's humongous terrace in the shade of the 200-year old rubber tree pictured below and much bigger even than my two-page spread could make it look.
The tree was probably, they say, planted by the monks of the Order of the Recoletos, who arrived in this area - then the outskirts of Buenos Aires -in the early eighteenth century.
This was my go-to cafe. Luckily it was a 40-minute walk from the loft, as that relieved my guilt about the medialunas ("half moons", BA version of croissants).