The historic neighborhood of La Boca is now just for tourists. But it's the home of many of the iconic photos of BA, with the colorful houses, famously painted by the poor immigrants with whatever color paint was left over at the port.
It's also the home of the Bombonera, where the famous Boca Jrs. play futbol. It has its own museum for those making a pilgrimage to the site, but I confined myself to the new and exquisitely elegant (and out of place) Fundación Proa, which had a great Giacometti show. Almost didn't get in, cuz the guy on the desk did NOT want to change my $100 peso note for the $12 entrance fee. One of the peculiarities of BA is its ongoing obsession with hoarding change.